When I hear the name Jerusalem, I think of the way of the cross, the crucifixion of Jesus, of Calvary and Gethsemane. Of the great historical and religious city where my Savior spent his final days; was crucified and buried. For Christians it holds a very special place, but it is also the hub of Judaism and Islam. It is the place where King Solomon built his first temple and the great Jewish King conquered and is buried. Where in Sunni Islam, Muhammad made his Night Journey and ascended to heaven. In a mere .35 square miles, it is the holds immense importance to three major religions. For each of the three faiths it is a holy city, a center of pilgrimage and an object of great devotion. Sitting on a plateau in the Judaean Mountains, views from outside the city walls of Old Jerusalem is impressive. Looking from across the valley toward the Golden Gate, you peer across a Jewish cemetery, with the tombs placed as close as possible to the Gate as this is where the Annoited One comes. It is also the gate where Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday and most likely exited to the Garden of Gethsemane. Each view, every step takes you a place in history.  My experiences are no different.

I have been to Old Jerusalem now four times, and discover something new each time. Of course Archaeologists continue to comb through this city that started construction during the Iron Age II nearly 3000 years ago. Some would argue it is even older, with some proof of construction during Egypt’s conquest of the region nearly 5000 years ago. Regardless, it is an ancient city that holds many treasures and reveals them slowly over the course of time. It has been the most important city in the region for centuries. Jerusalem has been the center of conflict for it’s entire existence; captured and recaptured around 44 times, attacked 52 times and besieged 23 times. It was the goal for the Crusades and protected by Saladin. Throughout it’s history, it has been destroyed and rebuilt but still holds its head high. The story of Jerusalem is the story of the world’s three major monotheistic religions and arguably the history of our modern world. It has not escaped being in the midst of today’s Middle East conflicts, but is venerated in an uneasy peace in the region..

Old Jerusalem is divided into four sectors, Christian, Jewish, Muslim and the Armenian.  I had always puzzled on why the Armenians had such a strong presence in the old city. It turns out they arrived in the 4th century after Armenia converted to Christianity and monks settled in Jerusalem. Throughout my times venturing through the different quarters, it was never clear to me when I crossed from one to the next. I never saw signs saying “you are now entering” or “you are leaving”, but visual signs gave a strong indication. You knew you were in the Christian quarter because you were at the Church of Holy Sepulchre, or a strong indication when you were standing at the Wailing Wall that you were in the Jewish quarter. The Muslim quarter actually holds the route of Jesus to Calvary (Via Dolorosa or Sorrowful Way), but the smell of strong coffee and a Arabic signs were a strong clue. The Armenian quarter was a little harder to discern until you came upon the Cathedral of St. James. The Armenian quarter was also a little less inviting and I actually have spent little time there.

The photographs below are intermixed between my different trips, but I try to keep them categorized for their representation.

When getting close to the Old City, it is always nice to stop and view overlooking the desert. As normal, at tour bus stops there are normal hawkers and Vicky took advantage for a photo op with a camel. A few minutes later, we are overlooking the City walls and the Golden Gate. Central to any photo from this angle is the golden dome on the Dome of the Rock, centered on the Temple Mount, the site of the Temple of Solomon. This dome is not a Mosque, but instead a Islamic shrine. It symbolizes Mohammad’s journey from Mecca. It’s location is less religious then symbolic as it sits in an important location on the Temple Mount and has become a symbol of the conquering of Jerusalem.  The Jewish cemetery rolls across the valley from our vantage point to the very walls and gates of the old city. A truly amazing site. We move across Kidron Valley, where Jesus would have walked to get to Jerusalem on Palm Sunday and crossed from his Last Supper to the Garden of Gethsemane and then lead back across after being betrayed and arrested.

It is only a short distance to the Garden of Gethsemane. This holy place, where Jesus prayed to his Father and where he was betrayed with a kiss is a solemn and venerated place. A church has been built surrounding the rock where Jesus prayed. The olive trees remain to pay tribute. It is actually possible the trees were witnesses and they are at the very least offshoots of the trees that were present for the prayer and betrayal. Their very presence enhance the spiritual nature of the garden.

The Church of all Nations surrounds the rock where Jesus underwent the agony while praying to our God and was ultimately arrested. It is built upon the foundation of a 4th Century Byzantine basilica destroyed in the 8th century by an earthquake and the 12th Century church built by the crusaders and abandoned in 1345. Built in 1919-1924, parts of the original foundations were discovered and brought into the design. There are still discoveries being made. 

We passed the Tomb of Mary, a dark chapel where according to some scholars, Mother Mary was buried. There appears to be no mention of her tomb in the bible, but it is not so difficult to believe this traditional location might be the place as it has been venerated since the 2nd century. It is dark and mysterious. As many other places, it is venerated not only by Christians but by Muslims. The original Church of the Assumption was rebuilt by the crusaders in the 12th century over a church that was originally built and rebuilt since the 5th century. The church was destroyed later in the 12th century, but the lower church remained intact. 

The Church of the Dormition or Dormition Abbey lies outside the walls of Old Jerusalem on the highest point in ancient Jerusalem, Mount Zion. Completed in 1910 on land donated from Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II, it is the location where Mother Mary had died and assumed into heaven. In the crypts below the Church is shrine in her honor. 

From the Abbey and also on Mount Zion is the Cenacle, which is where Jesus gave his disciples bread and wine symbolizing his body and blood as he prepared to sacrifice his life to save humanity. The present hall was built by the crusaders in 12th century and symbols of the knights can be found on pillars and in the designs. The room was transformed into a mosque in 1524 due to the attraction of the Tomb of King David. An ancient minuet is nearby. 

On the floor below is the “false” Tomb of King David. It is very difficult to see and get around due to the crowds and close proximity. 

Inside the walls of Old Jerusalem, history and religion collide in the most holy of cities and the spiritual center of the three monotheistic religions, Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Wondering through the narrow streets, it is easy to imagine Jesus walking upon the stone pavement, or carrying his cross to Mount Calvary along the Via Dolorosa. Of course, the small historical city has changed significantly over the years as it was conquered and lost numerous times. Still, knowing you are walking the path of the Lord God is life changing.

Wondering through the market of the Muslim quarter (which is also where most of the Via Dolorosa is located), the smell of Arabic coffee, herbs and exotic spices is almost overwhelming. To stop and have a cup and perhaps a plate of freshly made hummus is highly recommended. I am always drawn into the small cafes or the spice markets. Of course, following the Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrow) is an important path if you are Christian. You can stop at the small chapels along the way, place your hand is the traditional spot where Jesus braced himself while falling and left a indentation, and continue to the final 5 stations contained in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre is impressive, dour, crowded and complex. Originally built by Constantine in 326 over the site of a Pagan temple, it has been destroyed, restored and rebuilt most recently in 1149 by the Crusaders. Many are disappointed by the Church, personally I was in awe. Here is where Jesus was crucified, died and was buried and where he rose again. You can put your hand in the hole where the his Cross was placed on Mount Calvary, you can touch the stone where his body was laid and cleaned, and walk through the remainder of the cave where he was buried and was resurrected. You can pray at the more than 30 chapels from major Christian denominations, and feel very confident that you are as close to the mortal Jesus as physically possible. Some may suggest it cannot be proven this is the exact location of this most holy of places, but it was venerated from the very beginning of Christianity. 

Western Wall is in the Jewish Section and is sometimes called the Wailing Wall. This the last remaining section of wall that had surrounded the 2nd Jewish temple and was built in the 2nd Century BC. The wall stands on Mount Moriah and it is at this place where Abraham was tested, where Jacob saw his Stairway to Heaven and there Solomon built his first temple. It is basically the birthplace of the Jewish religion.